Tips & Tricks

  • I’ve set up the bridge but resin is leaking from the injector, what shall I do?
    • Have you applied too much pressure causing the seal to blow out? (It is a safety valve to prevent over pressuring the break). If yes, reduce the pressure by unscrewing the plunger and continuing the repair. The seal should stretch when pressure is applied, see the photo illustrating this in the photo manual, or check it out on the training video.
    • Other causes can be a damaged or miss-shaped seal. Inspect the seal and replace as necessary.
    • The surface impact point is larger than the seal. The resin will leak under the edge of the seal. Careful repositioning of the injector may solve the problem.
  • The seal doesn’t seem firm against the glass, what should I do?
    • The bridge is not set up correctly, resulting in insufficient pressure to hold the seal against the glass.
    1. Ensure that the notch in the chromed arm is aligned with the large notch on the body.
    2. Lift the lever on the top of the body.
    3. Press the body of the bridge down, firmly.
    4. Lower the lever. The bridge will now be applied firmly to the glass.
    • With the elite bridge, ensure that the injector is screwed down until the injector flange is firmly against the metal injector collar.
    • With the classic bridge ensure that the bridge is set up parallel to the glass and that the injector is screwed down until the pair of screws behind the injector just becomes loose.
  • The collar on my bridge is wobbling, is that normal?

    Yes. It is a self levelling design so some slight movement is normal.

  • My drill doesn’t switch on, what should I do?

    Check that the power supply is working (Test it by using the lamp). Ensure that the switch on the end of the drill is switched / rotated to the on position.

  • My repair has gone milky, what does that mean?
    When moisture penetrates into a break it can cause the PVB plastic layer to become milky white. This damage to the interlayer cannot be reversed. Often the chip itself will hide the discolouration and this will only become visible after the repair
  • I’ve cured the resin but the repair feels like it has a crater still, what can I do?
    After filling the break you should use pit fill resin to dress the impact point crater. A piece of plastic should be placed over this resin to stop it running away from the impact crater. DO NOT PRESS DOWN ON THE PLASTIC. This will press the resin out of the impact point. You can always put a second application of pit fill resin into the crater and re-cure.
  • My mirror bridge is falling off the glass.
    Ensure that the sucker on the mirror bridge is not damaged and is screwed tightly into position. Put a smear of gel onto the sucker before pressing it down firmly onto the glass.
  • The bridge isn’t holding to the screen for long enough.
    • Check that the glass is clean, if dirty then put glass cleaner onto a piece of paper towel and wipe around the break. DO NOT spray glass cleaner directly onto the break before the repair.
    • Check that the bridge sucker is clean and in good condition.
    • Put a smear of gel onto the outer edge of the sucker before use.
    • Ensure that the bridge has been set up correctly – Lift the lever on the top of the body.
    • Press the body of the bridge down, firmly.
    • Lower the lever. The bridge will now be applied firmly to the glass.
  • I’ve got resin on the paintwork what can I do?
    If the resin is still liquid the wipe it off immediately and wash with water or glass cleaner. If this has left a dull spot in the paint then polish with the Esprit Pit Fill Polish. If the resin has cured onto the paint then it cannot be removed. It is always better to use a bonnet cover to protect the paint from chemical spills and scratches.
  • My heater isn’t working
    Depending on the model, the Esprit heater will take from 30 to 60 seconds to reach full working temperature. The heater on/off switch is on the base of the unit next to the metal heating plate. It is designed so that the unit switches on when held against the glass and automatically switches off when removed from the glass. The heater can be pre-warmed by holding this switch down manually prior to use.
  • The lamp has stopped working – what should I do?
    Ensure that the lamp is switched on. Check that the power supply to the lamp is working. Test it by switching on the drill. If it is a fluorescent tube lamp then try a new tube. Ensure that the lamp is switched on. If it is still not working then send it into Esprit for repair. In an emergency, daylight will cure the resin. Allow 1 hour on an overcast day.
  • My tube lamp doesn’t seem to cure correctly anymore?
    • Tubes lose 30% of their power per year. Tubes should be updated annually.  They also produce less power in cold weather than in warm weather.
    • Some unbranded UV tubes are very weak.
    • The genuine plastic lamp face plates are UV transparent, most clear plastics are UV opaque.
    • Do not replace this item with non standard parts.
    • The UV plastic sheet/film used is UV transparent, again most clear plastics are UV blocking.
    • Sometimes it is the wrong type of plastic that prevents resin curing, not a lamp fault.